Saturday, July 23, 2016

The 22,000km Trip (26) Tokyo: How to get the best lunch deals in Tokyo

Many people flock to Tsukiji or Shibuya or Ginza for the most expensive and extravagant Japanese restaurants. What not many people know is that business districts in Tokyo have the most high-end, good quality, and cost efficient meals you can find. For one thing, there's nothing more than hard working salarymen and office ladies look forward to than lunch time. Actually it's the greatest things that can happen to them in their stress-filled lives. Restaurants know this and give the best deals during lunch, especially because they can use some extra business and that lunch menus are a great way to advertise so they can come back at night time, when it's more expensive. Office workers keep a good eye on these restaurants because most of them are quite high end and can be potentially nice places to take clients out for dinner or simply to have nice dinner gatherings with their coworkers. Office workers flock the business streets during lunch time from 11-1pm and it gets packed. 

With stiff competition restaurants which can even cost from 5,000 yen and up for a dinner course, serve a mini version during lunch for under 2,000 yen: half the price, so it's a fantastic deal

However you do have to do your research - go on food blogs, tabelog (the Japanese version of yelp). See what they have on their menus for lunch. Then, and this is important, look up what time they open and get there 5-10 minutes before they open. Usually they start around 11:30 and early lunch go-ers easily fill up all the spaces and it's packed by 12:15; especially if they are well known for its lunches. Some of the good hidden office areas for lunch are: Marunouchi (by Tokyo Station), Ebisu, Shinjuku, Kamiya-cho,Yuraku-cho, Jinbo-cho, Roppongi (the office area, not the party area!).

The Airbnb place where I happened to be staying was right in the heart of Kamiya-cho so I set out on my lunch quest!

Day 1: This is a very traditional kind of  定食(Teishoku) Restuaurant.  Literally meaning, "Set meal" it comes with 1-2 side dishes, pickles, miso soup, rice, plus a main entree of your choice. There's usually no menu in English, although some places may have pictures, so be sure what you want. There's dishes like tonkatsu, miso mackerel, corquettes, chicken karaage, gingered pork, etc what you would typically see in a Japanese restaurant in the US as well. Most places also let you choose how much rice you want so let them know of that when you order as well. The set menu costs around 800-1500 yen.
The place I went was VERY retro, everything from the decor to old men smoking and reading newspapers while they scarf away.
I ordered the grilled horse mackerel...my favorite!


Day 2:  Went to a really popular fresh seafood place. I arrived at 11:45 and the place was already full (only about 20 seats inside) and 2 parties already waiting. I had to wait about 20 minutes but it was worth it! I got the seafood rice bowl which includes 3 kind of sashimi, seaweed, omlette, and natto. It also comes with side dishes and miso soup. All this for 990 yen. Yum! 

Another great thing about lunch time is eavesdropping in on other people's conversations. Usually office workers go with other co-worker friends to lunch and the best place to hear gossip and complaining. I heard the guys on one side complaining about work place bureaucracy and women on the other side discussing about their marriage. Yes, you do need to know Japanese to do this but if you can, it's quite entertaining! I remember doing this as well when I was working in Tokyo myself but it was really interesting being the outsider and listening into their conversations.

Day 3 Ueno: Tempura shop
Many tourists think they have to go Michelin Tempura shops when they come to Tokyo but frankly not many Japanese people themselves have ever gone to high-end tempura shops (myself included). Most of us go to a chain franchise called Tenya. It could be said that it's sort of like a tempura fast-food chain but the only similarity is that they make it on the spot and very fast. Otherwise, the quality and the service is nothing you can match up to an American fast food place at least. And they best part is that it's cheap! I don't think anything costs more than 1,300 yen for the most expensive high-end shrimp tempura bowl. I usually get the "all-star" bow which includes both seafood and vegetables for about 880yen! Of course miso soup is complimentary.


Day 4: Sushi
I think I've talked about this place before but this is by far one of the best priced sushi-places in the Ginza Tsukiji area. The restaurant is actually on the outskirts, towards Ginza so it's in the heart of an office area so it's much cheaper than the tourist infested Tsukiji area. All this is for 1,300 yen I believe. This would probably cost around 3,000 yen in Tsukiji proper and there's also a long line which is not worth it.  There's also a sashimi seafood bowl for about 1,500 yen which is absolutely delicious as well. It costs about 3 times as much during dinner time so it's a deal for sure. It's called Tama Sushi.

I know better places to eat sushi, but I find that this place is the most accessible, affordable, and fresh. I come here when I want to be full and eat nice quality sushi. For special guests and occasions, I do have a few other high end places on my list.

Note on eating sushi in Japan: FYI if you want to eat really good sushi, actually the best ones are not in Tsukiji but are in Akasaka, Kanda, Azabu areas, and yes there are lots of other places that are much more affordable, nice quality,  and easier to book a table Sushi Jiro. They're usually not Michelin Starred (many sushi chefs refuse to have their food rated by Westerner who do no know about sushi) and are not advertised because they rely on the word-of-mouth and support of their clientele. So you really need to do some asking around, and more importantly for them to take you because they won't speak a word of English.


Day 5: Nippori
This is a cafeteria style Japanese lunch place where you can choose and take side dishes and entrees. Go down the row to pick the dishes and at the very end they'll ask you what kind of soup and size of rice that you like. You can also ask for on-demand dishes like omlette or ramen which they will make for you at the spot.

The unique thing about this franchise is that they are usually only in working-class/blue collar areas; so they are catered to construction workers, small factory workers, taxi drivers, etc. So you really have to go in the residential or small business areas to find them because they're not in touristy areas. However, if you do want to see what Japanese people really eat home, this is a great place to check it out. They have soy sauce simmered daikon and pork, salted fish eggs, stir-fried burdock root and carrots, Japanese-style potato salad... all the things that my mom makes me at home YUM. You don't even need English menus because they are right there.

 However, do beware what dishes you pick up because if you get 2-3 side dishes plus an entree, they will add up. My best advice is that you go with a few people, pick about 5-7 dishes all together, get your own rice/soup and then share. That way you can try a variety of things. List of stores (in Japanese)

I got the miso-simmered mackerel, vinegered fried fish, raw egg, fish eggs plus rice and miso soup. All for 990yen

Miso-simmered mackerel (さばの味噌煮)is my absolute favorite mom's food hands down

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